Five of My Favorites in Berlin as a “Neu Berliner”
In no particular order
Dokumentale
Dokumentale is an international documentary film festival taking place in venues across Berlin from Kant Kino in Charlottenburg, the Zeiss Planetarium, and multiple Freiluftkinos. The festival takes place over about two weeks in June. Had I known about it prior, I would have taken time off from language school and bought a pass. However, the Festival served an important purpose: mental stimulation and a cheap hangout spot on an otherwise drab Sunday afternoon. The festival organizers had partnered with the NGO, Transparency Global, which brought a human rights focus to the program. I was lucky enough to attend the German premiere of “The Accidental President,” produced and directed by British filmmakers Mike Lerner and Martin Herring. The film told the story of Belarusian Politician and Activist, Sviatlana Tsikhanouskaya, a former Presidential candidate, drawn into activism by the imprisonment of her journalist/politician husband. Most Americans know little about Belarus or even that it exists. However, in our current political climate there is quite a lot to be learned from Tsikanouskaya and her team.
A week later, I traveled to Kreuzberg’s Sputnik Kino to watch the final film of the festival and the Berlin premiere of “Facing War.” Directed by filmmaker Tommy Gulliksen, the film details fellow Norwegian, Jens Stoltenberg’s, final year as NATO Secretary General. Norwegian Ambassador to Germany, Laila Stenseng, was also on hand to introduce the film. I was impressed both by Gulliksen’s storytelling and Stoltenberg’s diplomacy. It was easy to understand why former President Biden begged Stoltenberg to once again extend his tenure. Stoltenberg is a true diplomat, showing his ability to negotiate with difficult characters including Recip Tayyip Erdogan and Victor Orban. NATO is now chaired by the former Dutch Prime Minister, Mark Rutte. After this year's summit, I feel a bit of nostalgia for earlier times.
The Pool at Hotel Oderberger
The past few weeks have been a mixture of unseasonably cold and hot weather. My apartment is a poorly ventilated “Neubau” in Mitte-Wedding, that until recently was so popular with pigeons that I could not open my windows. Hotel Oderberger in Prenzlauer Berg was built in 1898 as a city pool before closing in 1986. In 2016, the hotel was reopened and the pool is open to the public for a ten Euro fee with an extra ten to use the Sauna. The water is cool, perhaps cooler than some would like, but it is perfect for some mild lap swimming or respite on a hot day. When not swimming, guests can enjoy the architecture and recline on cushioned pool chairs. In the Evenings, the hotel bar is open for drinks and hor d'oeuvres with an extensive selection of mocktails. I myself prefer to spend the late afternoon and early evening across the street with a frozen yogurt in hand.
Dussmann
Dussmann das KulturKaufhaus is likely the largest book story I have ever seen. Three floors of books, school and office supplies, along with records and musical instruments. As a native English speaker, I am an English bookshop frequent flyer. The international bookshop on the second floor is large: two floors of nonfiction and fiction books along with a selection in Italian, Russian, French, and Ukrainian along with English children's books. The selection of contemporary literature is truly unmatched and has encouraged this nonfiction lover to branch out. I highly recommend The Testaments by Margaret Atwood and My Year of Rest and Relaxation by Ottessa Mosfeghi as well as almost anything by Liane Moriarty. On a cool day, snag a seat just around the corner at Ooh Cookies, a German combination of Levain and Crumbl Cookies that is infinitely better than the latter. Don’t leave without trying the Raspberry Bergamot Lemonade!
Sisaket
For my first three months in Berlin, I lived at Rochstraße 9, a DDR era high rise apartment complex, minutes from Alexanderplatz and Hackescher Markt and overlooking Dirkenstraße. As soon as I arrived at my new digs, I found myself fiending for Thai food. Growing up in Bloomington, Indiana, Pad Thai, Massaman Curry, and Pad Prik King were my family’s comfort food after long days at school or work when my father was too tired or busy to cook. After five hours of German class, my friend Jillian and I often found ourselves there, drinking Thai Iced Tea and tucking into steaming pots of food. Sisaket’s Massaman tasted exactly as I remembered with one welcome addition: Japanese sweet potatoes, which put the American variety to shame. The restaurant has a full bar and a spacious, peaceful dining room in the hustle and bustle of Berlin Mitte. This is the perfect place for a meetup with friends, date, or even a solo dinner with a good book.
Goethe Institut
A perpetual debate exists across the expat community in Berlin. Should we learn German? How should German learning be approached? What is the best method to set ourselves up for success? As I read the Berlin expat Facebook groups, I see many members asking if the “luxury” language schools in Mitte are really worth it. Of course, I cannot speak to the others, but I really think that Goethe is worth it. I did not begin my German learning “journey” at Goethe, but Goethe gave me the tools and confidence to progress with the language. I first attended Goethe’s flagship in Munich last summer before becoming a student at the Berlin location. Goethe is truly the gold standard of German. Some teachers are better than others, but they have always had something to teach me. The courses are effective. I have met students who have started from nothing with fluency in reach from attending intensive courses for nine months.
Learning German or any foreign language is never easy but being alone in a new city is far from a picnic. Goethe has given me the power to feel as if I am taking control of my life here by working steadily to progress in my learning. Goethe has allowed me to find community and connection here through both the people I have met in my classes and the free and low cost events held by the Culture and Freetime Program Office. Intensive German might not be for everyone. I am incredibly blessed to have the time and money for this program. However, I would not be where I am without it.